Wine reviewer makes a few saintly selections

Oct 28, 2024

There has always been a connection between Halloween and the Christian commemoration of All Saints’ Day. “Hallow” is an old English word for “holy,” and Halloween occurs the day before All Saints’ Day, previously called All Saints’ Eve.

Catholic saints are no strangers to wine bottles. A casual walk through a wine shop will reveal a host of saints. Much of this arises from the many saint-related place names in Europe, particularly in France. Many locations have connections to saints or nearby chapels, and local winemakers often adopt a saint’s name for their winery. The religious importance of wine in Christianity also ties wine to Catholic saints.

I made a few saintly wine selections.

The largest winery in the Pacific Northwest, Chateau Ste. Michelle, not only has a saintly name but even uses the French abbreviation “Ste.” However, if you research St. Michelle, you will be disappointed. According to catholic.org, there is no St. Michelle. There is a Michele Pio Fasoli, who was beatified (the first step toward sainthood), but that’s a different spelling.

When Chateau Ste. Michelle’s predecessor companies rebranded in the 1960s, they capitalized on the fascination with all things French. Michelle is the name of an executive’s wife.

A mass produced wine, Chateau Ste. Michelle 2021 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon shows powerful ripe currant and berry flavors with a touch of cocoa but lacks tannins and acidity. PLCB: $16. Rating: 3.5 stars.

Remember the Washington volcano, Mount St. Helens? It’s not named after a saint either, but after an explorer with the title “baron of St. Helens.” The saint feint might just be a Washington thing. You can find West Coast wine regions with names originating from early missionaries, such as the Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa Barbara County and Santa Ynez Valley.

A small chapel dedicated to Saint Cosme overlooks a vineyard near Gigondas, France, which produces grapes for the Saint-Cosme 2022 Côtes du Rhône. This 100 percent Syrah has the character of raspberry and blackberry, with a clean, mineral freshness and a hint of caramel. PLCB: $18. Rating: 4.5 stars.

One of the premier regions of Bordeaux is Saint-Estèphe (St. Stephen). The balanced and complex Chateau Meyney 2021 Saint-Estèphe offers the classic Bordeaux experience, with floral aromas, flavors of cassis, plum and graphite, balanced by refined tannins and strong acidity. Overall, this is a great expression of Bordeaux’s Left Bank style. PLCB: $42. Rating: 5 stars.